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Grafting Cultivation Technique of Watermelon>
The advantages of grafting and cultivating watermelons are numerous. It helps in controlling root nematodes, which is a major threat to watermelon crops. Grafting also enables continuous cropping without soil degradation, leading to better long-term productivity. Additionally, it promotes early maturing, allowing for earlier harvests and market entry. Watermelon grafting is also beneficial for moisture-resistant cultivation, making it suitable for areas with high humidity or heavy rainfall. Moreover, this technique significantly increases yield and improves plant resilience.
First, selecting the right rootstock is crucial. The rootstock should have strong disease resistance, good compatibility, and vigorous growth after grafting. Among various options, the round gourd is considered the most suitable due to its high survival rate and ability to withstand wet and cold conditions. It is robust, easy to handle, and provides a solid base for the scion.
Next, the sowing schedule for both rootstock and scion must be carefully planned. Rootstocks are usually sown first, followed by the watermelon scions. This ensures that the rootstock reaches the ideal size for grafting. Rootstock seeds are typically planted in small plastic bags filled with nutrient-rich soil, but the soil should not be too rich—just fine and loose. These bags are placed in a seedbed and kept moist. After about a week, the scion seeds are sown in another nursery box or bed. Protection from rain and rot is essential during this phase.
When performing the grafting, it's important that the thickness of the rootstock and scion stems match. If the rootstock is too small, the embryonic axis may be too thin, making grafting difficult and increasing the risk of cracking. Conversely, if the rootstock is too large, the medullary cavity might be too big, leading to poor healing. The best time for grafting is when the rootstock’s cotyledons are flat, and the true leaves are just beginning to appear. At this stage, the scion’s seedlings have emerged from the shell, and their cotyledons are turning green. If necessary, the rootstock’s true leaves can be removed to thicken the cotyledons and strengthen the stem. Alternatively, the rootstock can be slightly stressed to delay growth, allowing for better synchronization during grafting.
For large-scale grafting, it's recommended to sow in batches so that the grafting process can be spread out over time. Before grafting, it's important to spray the plants with a preventive fungicide to reduce the risk of disease.
Grafting methods include insertion and cleft grafting. For insertion, a grafting knife made from a wolfberry branch is inserted into the rootstock’s hypocotyl from the top of the cotyledon node. The knife is left in place while the scion is cut and inserted into the hole. For cleft grafting, the rootstock is cut with a bevel at the base of the cotyledon, creating an incision about 0.5–0.7 cm deep. The scion is similarly prepared, and the two cuts are matched and secured with a grafting clip. The cotyledons should remain parallel, and the clip should hold the parts together securely.
After grafting, the seedlings need careful management. They should be transplanted into nutrient pots immediately and watered gently, avoiding direct contact with the graft site. No watering or spraying should occur until the plants have established themselves. If pests or diseases appear, treatment should be delayed for at least 7–8 days. A protective cover is used to maintain warmth and humidity, with shading for the first three days. After that, the cover can be gradually removed. During the covering period, the temperature inside the film should be maintained between 25°C and 30°C during the day and 20°C at night. Ventilation and watering are strictly avoided for the first three days to prevent damage.
If lateral buds appear on the rootstock, they should be removed promptly using tweezers. Finally, when transplanting the grafted seedlings into the field, they should be spaced appropriately—1.8 meters apart in rows and 2 meters between rows—to ensure proper growth and air circulation.
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