Hawthorn's pruning features and problems

Hawthorn's pruning features and problems

1. Pruning is based on the principle of "training trees and shaping them with branches" to transform the tree structure. The process starts by removing overlapping, dense, or intersecting branches, leaving those that are well-spaced and growing in a balanced manner without interfering with each other. To maintain productivity and restore tree vitality, some large branches are gradually removed over time—typically 1 to 3 in the first year. These remaining large branches are pruned back to control their growth, while fruit is temporarily retained. This process continues for the second and third years to further refine the tree's shape and function.

In the first year, sparse or weak branches are removed, and strong branches with good branching potential are selected for shortening. Long, non-flowering branches are pruned as much as possible to make the branch structure more compact and sturdy. On the outer parts of the tree canopy, thin shoots are thinned out, leaving fresh buds (red) and new shoots to concentrate nutrients, restore tree vigor, and improve fruit set rates.

In subsequent years, the balance between growth and fruit production is fine-tuned: 1) Remove dense, weak, or redundant branches, aiming to shorten and renew them to create a compact structure that promotes healthy growth and forms strong vegetative branches. 2) Lightly prune robust branches to slow their growth and encourage the formation of strong fruiting branches. 3) Appropriately shorten long fruit-bearing branches to increase fruit setting and ensure high-quality fruit. This approach not only supports overall tree development but also ensures sufficient fruiting wood, leading to high-quality and high-yield harvests.

2. Bark scraping is done in early spring (March or early April), when old, cracked bark on the trunk and major branches is scraped off and burned. This helps eliminate pests such as Pyrosphaeridae, leaf curl insects, star caterpillars, and red spiders that may be hiding in old bark. After the first scraping, it should be repeated every 1 to 2 years to allow latent buds to develop into new shoots, promoting canopy renewal or the cultivation of new fruiting branches. Continuous scraping can damage buds and prevent new shoot growth.

3. Tree tray shaving is performed annually during the spring and summer seasons, typically 1 to 3 times. This involves loosening the soil and addressing root issues to improve aeration, moisture retention, and nutrient availability. Combined with soil cultivation, water conservation structures are built, and tree trays are created to store water near the base of the tree.

4. Fertilization before flowering takes place 15 to 20 days prior to blooming. Radial groove fertilization is applied, starting with 2 kg of ammonium bicarbonate for two-year-old trees, and about 4.5 kg of chemical fertilizer annually (1 kg ammonium bicarbonate mixed with 3.5 kg ammonium superphosphate).

5. Gibberellin application during flowering occurs at the end of May and early June to help preserve fruit. One gram of refined gibberellin from Shanghai is dissolved in 5 to 10 grams of alcohol and then diluted in 20 kg of water, or alternatively, 50 ppm of gibberellic acid is sprayed across the canopy.

6. Top-dressing of the roots is carried out from late June to August, with 3 to 5 applications. Every 10 to 15 days, 0.3% to 0.5% urea is sprayed. In August, 0.3% potassium dihydrogen phosphate is applied once or twice.

7. Green manure pressing is done during the rainy season or from July to August. Under the tree canopy, furrows 0.5 meters deep and 0.5 meters wide are dug, and wild weeds are pressed into the soil. A layer of grass is buried, and the soil is slightly raised above ground level. Each tree receives 50 to 100 kg of green manure.

8. Pest and disease control is carried out promptly according to the occurrence of infestations. Regular monitoring and timely intervention are essential to maintain tree health and prevent serious damage.

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